Review of AQ Skin Solutions Skincare-based on Epidermal Growth Factor peptides and before and after pics.

Epidermal Growth Factor aka EGF is a fascinating and controversial skincare ingredient. In the quest to find something that will actually have a visual impact on ageing skin EGF is very interesting indeed. AQ Skin Solutions sent me a sample of their Active Serum to try. AQ Solutions was designed by a scientist called Dr Al-Qahtani (hence the “AQ”). He is known for his research work on wound healing and Growth Factor functions and has applied his knowledge in the field to his skincare line.

Here are the facts-

• Ingredients– OligoPeptide-1, Water (Aqua) Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Xantham Gum, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lactic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Bergamonia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Phenoxyethanol, 1,2 Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol.
• Paraben Free, Sulfate Free, Phthalate Free, Cruelty Free
• £157 for 30mls from AQSkinSolutions.com or £174.44 from Amazon
• Directions– Use half a pump twice daily every day for best results, effects may be seen within 2 weeks but you should see improvements in 6 weeks

The thing that immediately struck me about Active Serum is that the active ingredient is first on the list. That doesn’t happen. How can there be more active than anything else?? But there is, apparently it’s 42% Oligopeptide-1, which is the science name for Epidermal Growth Factor.

AQ Skin Solutions Review- How Epidermal Growth Factors Work

Epidermal Growth factors (aka EGF aka sh-Oligopeptide-1) are produced by cells in the skin called Fibroblasts. They are peptide chains which bind to receptors in skin cells and tell the cell to do something. Different factors have different effects on the cell. That effect could be to tell the cell to multiply or produce collagen or elastin.

Dr Al-Qahtani has developed a method for isolating only the peptides that produce desirable effects in the skin. (Here’s the details of his patent if you’re interested). It looks like the Growth Factors are of human origin, which makes it sound like you’re putting human cells on your face, but that’s not the actual situation.

The human fibroblast cells are removed from the skin sample and placed in something called Media. This media nourishes the cells and gives them an environment to produce the goods.

This is what AQ Solutions says about it-

AQ cosmeceutical serums contain conditioned media known to retain the highest quality of specific growth factors, cytokines and interleukins that accelerate the regenerative process. Using advanced cell sorting technology, AQ Skin Solutions GF serums were formulated utilizing the screened, immortalized fibroblast cell lines

In a nutshell, adding Growth Factors to the skin helps replace the peptides that deplete as we age and rejuvenate the skin and AQ Solutions has a clever way of getting them. Here are the results when comparing AQ Solutions to other brands-

AQ Solutions Active Serum Review- What Does The Serum Actually Do?

Oligopeptide-1 in skincare-

• Supplements the skin’s natural growth factors.
• Promotes skin cell replication.
• Increases collagen and thus skin firmness.
• Reverses sun damage caused by sunlight and pollution
• Helps diminish sun spots
• Reduces wrinkles and increases skin elasticity

AQ Solutions does other interesting products including a range for salons to be used alongside their dermastamp. For home use, they also do an eye serum (which is a bit more affordable at £99), a lash enhancement serum and a vaginal rejuvenation system.

The lady garden product sounds a bit beyond, but it’s for symptoms of vaginal discomfort and dryness. If you suffer from such symptoms, I’m sure you’d be very keen to find a solution.

There is some controversy about Human Growth Factors in skincare. Some experts say that the molecules are just too big to pass into the skin and they can be used merely as a selling point (I’ll come to that later). There are also concerns about cancer risks- if EGF can cause healthy skin cells to multiply, then it could do the same for cancer cells. There has been no evidence that EGF in skincare has caused a problem in healthy skin, but it is worth a mention so that us consumers can do our research and make an informed decision.

AQ Skin Solutions Active Serum Review

The serum is nicely packaged in a clinical looking pump bottle. It’s a thin brown liquid which absorbs really well. It’s not particularly hydrating so definitely a treatment step before hydration.

Active Serum has a faint smell of Bergamot, which I really wish it didn’t have. I don’t want scented facial skincare, I’d rather it smelt bad and didn’t have it. The smell is not overpowering so I’ll overlook it.

We’ve explored the Epidermal Growth Factors so let’s have a look at the other ingredients-

• Tetrahexyl Ascorbate– a very stable form of vitamin C, great for anti ageing, collagen support and brightening
• Tocopherol Acetate– synthetic Vitamin E, a great antioxidant.
• Lactic Acid– a mild exfoliant and moisture barrier booster

Really the shining focus of AQ Solutions Active Serum is the Oligopeptide-1/Epidermal Growth Factor.

I really felt like there was a visible difference in my skin after using it. My skin seemed brighter and firmer. I felt the fine lines under my eyes looked better. I didn’t get any skin irritation or acne flare ups.

I must admit to doing something that I feel a bit squeamish about. I’m not entirely sure about dermarolling but I did feel like Active Serum would pair well with a bit of ‘rolling. As I said Growth Factors have quite large particle sizes, which means that it’s more difficult for it to get through the skin. By using an at home derma roller, I was hoping to allow the EGF to pass into my skin so that it could get to the cells it needed to.

I used a 1mm derma roller that I purchased from Amazon. I thoroughly cleaned the area, my hands and the roller with hot water and alcohol and gently passed the roller over my skin a few times. Then I applied the AQ Solutions Active Serum, allowing it to absorb before moisturising. I swear blind that the days after derma rolling and using the EGF serum, my skin looked loads smoother and brighter.

I feel a bit torn about home derma rolling. On one hand, I know it can help produce the results that I’m after, but on the other, I have concerns about exposing my dermis to bacteria and allergens. Whether you derma roll or not is entirely up to you, I am neither recommending or condemning it, but it’s definitely worth reading up about it first and making sure you are careful about sterilising.

AQ Skin Solutions Active Serum- Before and After Pics

The only way to properly demonstrate the effects to you is to show bare face pictures. The after picture was taken after 6 weeks of using Active Serum twice daily and derma rolling once a week.  I was in the same spot in my bedroom at the same time of day. Also had my brows done in the course of the trial, which changes my appearance slightly.

I can see a clear difference in brightness and texture. My under eye lines are less visible, I also feel like my jawline is tighter, I’m not sure if this is just my imagination. Overall it’s an impressive result.

AQ Skin Solutions Active Serum is some serious skincare with plenty of research and science behind it. I found it worked really well especially when I used a derma roller. It might seem a bit expensive but not if you compare it to regular Botox treatment, and that’s the kind of level Active Serum is at.

To read more about skincare and how to get results head to my Skincare 101 post